Bombay Beach: A Guide to California’s Strangest Desert Town
Bombay Beach on the Salton Sea, California
Bombay Beach is one of California’s most quirky and unusual destinations. Located on the eastern shore of the Salton Sea (which is actually a lake), Bombay Beach was once a luxury holiday resort, but is now known for its surreal landscape, abandoned buildings, and art installations.
Today, there are around 250-350 permanent residents, although it felt pretty deserted when we were there. Bombay Beach is atmospheric and creepy, but even with all the ruins and decay, it’s strangely beautiful.
These days Bombay Beach’s fascinating history attracts urban photographers, artists, and road-trippers like us.
Where is Bombay Beach, and why go?
The Salton Sea and Bombay Beach are just over an hour’s drive south east from Palm Springs, or just under 3 hours from San Diego. If you are coming from San Diego, make sure you check out Borrego Springs and its dramatic steel and scrap metal sculptures on the way.
It’s also a great addition to any road trip that includes Joshua Tree National Park. The journey to Bombay Beach takes you through vast desert scenery and along empty highways. As soon as you get there, the landscape begins to feel surreal and the place has an eerie quiet about it. It actually made me feel a little anxious at first. Almost like we were trespassing on an entire town.
Bombay Beach isn’t a typical tourist destination, and that’s why we were drawn to it so much. If you enjoy surreal landscapes, have an appreciation for art, or love photography, Bombay Beach is an intriguing place to explore.
When to go
If you are able to plan your trip for the cooler months (November to March), then I would definitely do so. It was over 45℃ (113℉) when we visited, even though it was September. I have never experienced heat like it. You will have a better experience, if you are able to wander around more.
The best time of day to visit is sunset. Sunsets at Bombay Beach can be dramatic with the sunlight reflecting on the Salton Sea, creating atmospheric shadows around the artworks. A photographer’s dream.
The Strange History of Bombay Beach
In the 1950’s and 1960’s, the Salton Sea was marketed as the “California Riviera”. Bombay Beach was one of the main resorts along the Salton Sea shoreline. At its peak, the town had a marina and yacht clubs attracting rich Californians who would come for the weekend to sail. There were hotels and holiday homes, restaurants and bars, and fishing opportunities, all in the Californian sunshine.
The boom years didn’t last though. As the Salton Sea is actually a lake, there was no natural outlet. Chemicals from nearby agriculture ran off into the lake, and pollution levels rose. The water became saltier and the fish began to die off. A flood in the 1970s also damaged a lot of the buildings along the coast (the Salton Sea is 200 feet below sea level). By the 1980’s the smell of rotting fish drove out most of the businesses that had been operating there for the previous twenty years. By the 1990’s Bombay Beach was abandoned, and fishing was banned.
Today, most of the original buildings have fallen into disrepair, and there is almost a post-apocalyptic vibe, very in-keeping with video games of the genre.
The recent use of the town for art and sculpture has attracted visitors once again. Photographers and tourists now come to see the beauty in the town’s faded charm.
Things to See at Bombay Beach
Outdoor Art Installations
One of the most appealing aspects of Bombay Beach is the collection of outdoor art installations dotted around town throughout the streets, and along the shoreline. Walking through Bombay Beach feels like wandering through a surreal desert gallery.
Six artworks not to miss:
1. Diva Station of the Sea
I’ve just realised in writing this that this is a play on the word “devastation”, and the title of the piece can sound like “Devastation of the Sea”. Very clever!
The Diva Station of the Sea features a set-up of a dining table made from salvaged wood with some chairs and a pink table cloth, with what looks like the remains of a pier as its backdrop. Two of the pier uprights have been made into a swing with a rainbow above it. It’s the perfect photo opportunity. That’s me on the swing, covered up in the searing heat.
2. “The only other thing is nothing” is one of two metal sculptures by artist @Midabi (Michael Birnberg).
The work sums up environmental catastrophe and decay, with what feels like a very post-apocalyptic message.
3. “The Seas may sink tomorrow. The ocean will remain”
This is the other metal sculpture by Michael Birnberg, and comments on the rapidly receding shoreline at Bombay Beach.
4. Last Resort Signs
These two signs are near the entrance to Bombay Beach and are perpendicular to each other. They used to say “The Last Stop for the Bombay Beach Resort”, but the words in blue have faded. I think this was on purpose in order for the “The Last Resort” wording to seem dystopian.
5. Bombay Beach TVs
Bombay Beach TVs is a permanent art installation by local artist Jack Parker and located on 4th Street in the town. The installation depicts dozens of painted scrap television sets. Some of the screens are painted with patterns, and others depicting landscapes, or faces.
6. Bombay Beach Drive-In
The Bombay Beach Drive-In is probably the most famous art installation, and landmark in Bombay Beach. Located in the centre of town on Avenue E, the piece features rusty, abandoned cars all facing in one direction as if they are at a drive-in (the sign also gives that away). This permanent work also highlights the town’s decay over time.
There are many more pieces of artwork to see, and sculptures are added or removed from time to time, so you may see something different, however the TVs and Drive-In are permanent features.
The Shoreline of the Salton Sea
One of the most striking features of the area is the shoreline itself. As well as sand and pebbles, parts of the beach are covered with the remains of fish bones from the decades of environmental damage. Don’t go into the water, as it is toxic. I’m quite sure the smell will keep you away anyway.
Vintage Trailers and Desert Homes
Driving through Bombay Beach reveals rows of vintage trailers, colourful homes, and eccentric decorations. Some properties have been lovingly restored, while others remain abandoned, adding to the town’s eerie atmosphere.
Fun fact: Sandy Shores in Grand Theft Auto V was inspired by both Bombay Beach, and the town of Desert Shores on the opposite banks of the Salton Sea.
Residents and artists have embraced the area’s quirky reputation, often decorating their homes with creative sculptures and murals.
Other Things to See
Stay at Bombay Beach for the sunset. The still waters of the Salton Sea combined with the desert mountains in the distance often produce dramatic colours that are well worth waiting for.
The Ski Inn is one of two bars in Bombay Beach, the other being the American Legion. If you want no frills food and a beer, this is really the only place for miles. The decor is nostalgic and the walls are covered in dollar bills. The Ski Inn is open from 10am every day.
Salvation Mountain - if you have more time on your hands, head south out of Bombay Beach down Highway 111 for half an hour to just outside Slab City.
Salvation Mountain is a man-made monument covered in half a million gallons of colourful latex paint, with Christian messages such as “God is Love” painted on it. It started as a small mound made of dirt and painted cement, but over time became a sprawling mountain complex, with added structures made of telephone poles, tyres, and car windows etc, all painted in stripes or colour blocks of whatever paint was donated that week. Sadly we ran out of time to go and see this.
Tips for visiting Bombay Beach
Be prepared for the smell of sulphur as you approach the coastline.
The nearest petrol station is 20 miles away in Niland, so make you you top up before starting your journey.
Bring water and snacks unless you are planning on eating at the Ski Inn. Definitely still bring plenty of water though.
Make sure you dress appropriately for your skin type in the searing heat. I would also suggest closed toe shoes due to debris on the beach.
For travellers seeking something different, a visit to Bombay Beach and the shores of the Salton Sea will be one of the most memorable stops on any California road trip itinerary.
